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FX 8150 80+ (C) and shutting down a lot

Collin2012

Member
A week or so ago I noticed a very weird whining noise coming from my PC. The only way I can describe it is perhaps a stock horror movie girl scream but not as intense and it wound up if you know what I mean. It wasn't ear piercing, actually far from it but it was noticeable.

I couldn't figure out where it was coming from. Even after sticking my face in the case it was still hard to decipher but it seemed like it may have been coming from the back of the case which is where my PSU is. After a day or two it completely stopped. But after that I can no longer play Battlefield 4 without my CPU going up into the 80s Celcius 170's Fahrenheit and the PC shutting off.

To be fair I never monitored my temps prior to this but I have been told that is extremely high. I had this thing built during Christmas of 2012. I had not changed the thermal paste at all. I was a noob at computers when this thing was built but now I know so much more. And today I bought new thermal paste and re-applied it hoping to fix the issue. Just an FYI I have a stock cooler. But it hasn't been an issue for 2 solid years. This all started after that whining sound.

I put a dot in the center of the CPU the size of a pea and re applied the heat-sink. It's been about 4-5 hours since I did that. To be fair when I took the heat-sing off it looked like the person before me put a fair bit more than I did. I just don't understand. But here are a few things for you guys that may help with a diagnosis.

1) It's a bulldozer series
2) I just applied new paste
3) Stock heat sink
4) It's going to be a very hot week. The upper 90's all week long. If it's hot outside my PC normally breathes harder than normal.
5) It's over heating even with the top and front bezels off and the left side panel.

I have a 700W Power supply known as the "CoolerMaster Extreme Power Plus" It's not certified of any kind such as bronze, silver, gold or platinum.

The current idle temp is 14(C) which can fluxuate anywhere up to the 20s or 30s for a few seconds but it seems to be steady.

Not sure what else I can give for help here. I did some research and I found that this CPU gets really REALLY hot. I know all CPUS do but this one is kind of severe. I know stock heat sinks could be an issue. I might even have to go to liquid cooling but I am not even OCING.

Here are some screens for you guys.

HW Monitor:
e1485e9edc.png


AMD CCC:
f15836af34.png


Not sure what else you guys need.

So far this has only happened when trying to play Battlefield 4. But this is new because I have been playing BF4 since it came out and this never happened until after that weird whining noise. But then again when it's hot outside my PC is hot because it's hotter indoors even with the air on.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 8.1
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    AMD FX 8150 3.6 Ghz Eight Core
    Motherboard
    BIOSTAR TA970XE AM3+ AMD 970 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
    Memory
    16GB DDR3
    Graphics Card(s)
    R9 280X 3GB Dual X OC Edition
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung SyncMaster S20B350
    Screen Resolution
    1600x900
    Hard Drives
    1 Terabyte
    PSU
    Coolermaster 700W
    Case
    ThermalTake Chaser MK-1
    Cooling
    Fan (x2) 200MM Color Shift Fan, (x1) 140MM
    Mouse
    Logitech M310
    Browser
    Chrome
    Other Info
    Blu-Ray Player, Hot-Swap Dock, E-Sata

broe23

Retired from the grind
VIP Member
Pro User
Cannot tell from your thumbnail, what the temps are. Need a better image to see what they are, or the report. Keep frying the CPU & GPU like that. You are going to need a new motherboard, and other parts.

What is your air temp. inside the home, when the a/c is on? What is the output temp of the registers if this is Central air. What is temp is the thermostat set on for the a/c. What is the intake temp at the returns if this is central air?

All of that matters. Our house stays between 68-70 deg farenheit during the Summer. Winter it stays around 66-68. The key is that electronics love cooler air if you can keep the house cool. The hotter and more humid it is inside. The shorter the lifespan of the electronics.
 

My Computer

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    AMD E1-1200 APU with Radeon (tm) HD Graphics 1.40 GHZ
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    A/V UPS - Tripp-Lite Smart 1500LCD 1500 Va/900 W.

CountMike

Well-Known Member
VIP Member
Guru
What you heard is "Coil whine", it usually happens under overloads. It could come from PSU, MB or GPU. Those coils are in the power supply sections on the MB and GPU. Coils are small transformers or coils in the power regulation circuits and in some circumstances can make noises like that. All by itself, it's not a dangerous condition but can be indication of some other problems, like overloading etc.
Like broe said, we need better picture of HW Monitor test and while running a benchmark test, data on idle does not provide accurate measurements. FX series is known to provide wrong data on idle.
Another thing is that factory CPU coolers are barely enough for normal work in temperate climates. I would recommend a decent, at least 4 heatpipe, Aftermarket CPU cooler with one or two 120mm fans.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 8.1 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    Home made
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen7 2700x
    Motherboard
    Asus Prime x470 Pro
    Memory
    16GB Kingston 3600
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    Asus strix 570 OC 4gb
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    Samsung 960 evo 250GB
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    WD 2 TB Blue
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    Sharkoon, Silent Storm 660W
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    Raidmax
    Cooling
    CCM Nepton 140xl
    Internet Speed
    40/2 Mbps
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    Firefox
    Antivirus
    WD

vrosa

Tech Addict
VIP Member
Pro User
Maybe you have more than a temperature problem. Although 80°C is not a comfortable temperature it's still bellow the die temperature. I'm on water and my CPU cores are normally around 40-45°C, but it quickly reaches 88°C @ 4.5GHz during "burn tests".

My CPU die temperature (Tj) is 100°. I read in another forum that your CPU die temperature is 95°C, but it's not official. Couldnt find nothing about it in AMD product page.

Good luck !
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10.0.10122
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    PC/Desktop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    My Build - Vorttex Ultimate
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    Core i7 @ 4500 MHz
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    ASUS Z87-Plus
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    Some wired stuff

Collin2012

Member
The reason you can't see the image is because this site takes full sized images and shrinks them and doesn't hyperlink them. Right click them to get the URL for full image. And yes I know I am going to need a new Heatsink but it was just so sudden that this started to happen.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 8.1
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    AMD FX 8150 3.6 Ghz Eight Core
    Motherboard
    BIOSTAR TA970XE AM3+ AMD 970 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
    Memory
    16GB DDR3
    Graphics Card(s)
    R9 280X 3GB Dual X OC Edition
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung SyncMaster S20B350
    Screen Resolution
    1600x900
    Hard Drives
    1 Terabyte
    PSU
    Coolermaster 700W
    Case
    ThermalTake Chaser MK-1
    Cooling
    Fan (x2) 200MM Color Shift Fan, (x1) 140MM
    Mouse
    Logitech M310
    Browser
    Chrome
    Other Info
    Blu-Ray Player, Hot-Swap Dock, E-Sata

CountMike

Well-Known Member
VIP Member
Guru
You are looking at "Package" temperature that is always much higher because they are measured on the back side of processor. What you need are "Core" temps to make sure that processor is actually overheating at the top side in contact with cooler. There is another possibility although remote. On the processor, there is metal lid on top of the processor itself enclosed in it. It could happen that paste between them has gone sour or dried up or the lid is buckled and doesn't transfer heat properly. When doing some extreme OCing people carefully remove it and change paste to something better and so manage to get up to or more than 10c cooler temps. I also found more than one of those stock coolers to have warped contact surfaces. Careful lapping of the cooler bottom can possibly fix that. Once it starts overheating those things can get worse. Did you run HW Monitor during playing that game ?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 8.1 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    Home made
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen7 2700x
    Motherboard
    Asus Prime x470 Pro
    Memory
    16GB Kingston 3600
    Graphics Card(s)
    Asus strix 570 OC 4gb
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 960 evo 250GB
    Silicon Power V70 240GB SSD
    WD 1 TB Blue
    WD 2 TB Blue
    Bunch of backup HDDs.
    PSU
    Sharkoon, Silent Storm 660W
    Case
    Raidmax
    Cooling
    CCM Nepton 140xl
    Internet Speed
    40/2 Mbps
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    WD

Collin2012

Member
Today I did everything possible without taking out the CPU itself. I took off the heatsink cleaned it up and the processor. I cleaned out the dust as much as possible on the heatsink and re-applied the paste. I took out my GPU and blew it out. I blew out the PSU fans and PC fans. I am noticing lower temps on idle.

These are the latest temps after cleaning.

9efd89f6db.png


It got to 72 before I quit battlefield 4 due to fear of shutdown.It is a very hot day today and has been for a while and it will be for a week. When it's hot outside my PC works harder.

I know something is going on because my game is stuttering as the "Package" temps climb.

Yes I have been using HW monitor after the first 2 shutdowns.

Here is CoreTemp (app):
69584251af.png
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 8.1
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    AMD FX 8150 3.6 Ghz Eight Core
    Motherboard
    BIOSTAR TA970XE AM3+ AMD 970 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
    Memory
    16GB DDR3
    Graphics Card(s)
    R9 280X 3GB Dual X OC Edition
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung SyncMaster S20B350
    Screen Resolution
    1600x900
    Hard Drives
    1 Terabyte
    PSU
    Coolermaster 700W
    Case
    ThermalTake Chaser MK-1
    Cooling
    Fan (x2) 200MM Color Shift Fan, (x1) 140MM
    Mouse
    Logitech M310
    Browser
    Chrome
    Other Info
    Blu-Ray Player, Hot-Swap Dock, E-Sata

CountMike

Well-Known Member
VIP Member
Guru
The main reason CPUs heat up during heavy use and when frequency jumps when goes turbo is that voltage to it goes up too but according to your HW Monitor it went up just to 1.404 and that's under maximum. Just curious, are you using Cool&Quiet at all ?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 8.1 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    Home made
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen7 2700x
    Motherboard
    Asus Prime x470 Pro
    Memory
    16GB Kingston 3600
    Graphics Card(s)
    Asus strix 570 OC 4gb
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 960 evo 250GB
    Silicon Power V70 240GB SSD
    WD 1 TB Blue
    WD 2 TB Blue
    Bunch of backup HDDs.
    PSU
    Sharkoon, Silent Storm 660W
    Case
    Raidmax
    Cooling
    CCM Nepton 140xl
    Internet Speed
    40/2 Mbps
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    WD

vrosa

Tech Addict
VIP Member
Pro User
::A bit off topic::

The temperature increase is proportional to the frequence and to the square of voltage. Curiously when the processor is under load in turbo mode, voltage may decrease (vdrop) to avoiding excessive current in the cores.

:)
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10.0.10122
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    My Build - Vorttex Ultimate
    CPU
    Core i7 @ 4500 MHz
    Motherboard
    ASUS Z87-Plus
    Memory
    32GB DDR3 @ 1822 MHz (OC)
    Graphics Card(s)
    Radeon R9 280X 3GB @ 1180 / 6800 MHz
    Sound Card
    7.1 HDA
    Monitor(s) Displays
    LCD LG 22" + CRT LG 17"
    Screen Resolution
    1760 x 1320 / 1280 x 960
    Hard Drives
    1 x 240 GB SSD (System)
    3 x 500 GB HDD (Data/Media)
    1 x 2000 GB e-HDD (Backup)
    PSU
    ThermalTake 1000W PSU
    Case
    Corsair Carbide R300
    Cooling
    Corsair H60 (Push-Pull)
    Keyboard
    Microsoft Wireless Keyboard
    Mouse
    Microsoft Wireless Mouse
    Internet Speed
    60 Mbps (Down) 5 Mbps (Up)
    Browser
    IE, FF, Chrome
    Antivirus
    AVG Internet Security 2015
    Other Info
    Some wired stuff

CountMike

Well-Known Member
VIP Member
Guru
::A bit off topic::

The temperature increase is proportional to the frequence and to the square of voltage. Curiously when the processor is under load in turbo mode, voltage may decrease (vdrop) to avoiding excessive current in the cores.

:)
Yes, vdrop is regulated by BIOS, it happens when power section on the MB cannot supply enough power to CPU, also with LLC setting in BIOS, when set to less than maximun voltage allowed for particular processor.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 8.1 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    Home made
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen7 2700x
    Motherboard
    Asus Prime x470 Pro
    Memory
    16GB Kingston 3600
    Graphics Card(s)
    Asus strix 570 OC 4gb
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 960 evo 250GB
    Silicon Power V70 240GB SSD
    WD 1 TB Blue
    WD 2 TB Blue
    Bunch of backup HDDs.
    PSU
    Sharkoon, Silent Storm 660W
    Case
    Raidmax
    Cooling
    CCM Nepton 140xl
    Internet Speed
    40/2 Mbps
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    WD

altae

New Member
Power User
I'd definitely go for a better cpu cooler. These days you can get a decent one for almost no money. The Bulldozer cpus are known as not beeing energy efficient, they tend got get very hot easily (the same problem with its successor, the Vishera cpus).
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 8.1 Update 1
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    self built
    CPU
    AMD FX-8350
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD7 Rev. 3
    Memory
    16 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Zotac GTX 770 Amp 2 GB
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    GDATA Internet Security

Collin2012

Member
Under the bios there is a "CPU Smart Fan" Option and it has these settings " Disabled, Auto, 3-Pin, 4-Pin" It's currently disabled. My buddy said he's going to get me a new cooler. The Evo 212 I think it was.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 8.1
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    AMD FX 8150 3.6 Ghz Eight Core
    Motherboard
    BIOSTAR TA970XE AM3+ AMD 970 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
    Memory
    16GB DDR3
    Graphics Card(s)
    R9 280X 3GB Dual X OC Edition
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung SyncMaster S20B350
    Screen Resolution
    1600x900
    Hard Drives
    1 Terabyte
    PSU
    Coolermaster 700W
    Case
    ThermalTake Chaser MK-1
    Cooling
    Fan (x2) 200MM Color Shift Fan, (x1) 140MM
    Mouse
    Logitech M310
    Browser
    Chrome
    Other Info
    Blu-Ray Player, Hot-Swap Dock, E-Sata

Rickkins

Banned
80c is way to hot for your 8150, and you are at risk of destroying it. I've been running an 8150 since they have come out, and to me, something is wrong somewhere.

A
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Win8.1 Pro, Desktop Mode
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    Me
    CPU
    AMD FX-8150
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte GA-890GPA-UD3H
    Memory
    8.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR3 (9-9-9-28)
    Graphics Card(s)
    AMD Radeon HD 6570
    Sound Card
    Creative X-Fi Titanium
    Monitor(s) Displays
    PX2710MW
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080@60Hz
    Hard Drives
    1x1TB Western Digital WDC WD1001FALS-00J7B1 ATA Device Caviar Black -

    4 x 2TB Seagate ST32000542A -
    1 x 4TB Seagate External
    Case
    Antec
    Cooling
    Noctua NH-D14
    Keyboard
    Logitech Illuminated Keyboard K740
    Internet Speed
    60meg cable
    Browser
    Cyberfox
    Antivirus
    AVG Security Suite

Rickkins

Banned
Here's mine...
 

Attachments

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    CoreTemp-Scr.png
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My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Win8.1 Pro, Desktop Mode
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    Me
    CPU
    AMD FX-8150
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte GA-890GPA-UD3H
    Memory
    8.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR3 (9-9-9-28)
    Graphics Card(s)
    AMD Radeon HD 6570
    Sound Card
    Creative X-Fi Titanium
    Monitor(s) Displays
    PX2710MW
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080@60Hz
    Hard Drives
    1x1TB Western Digital WDC WD1001FALS-00J7B1 ATA Device Caviar Black -

    4 x 2TB Seagate ST32000542A -
    1 x 4TB Seagate External
    Case
    Antec
    Cooling
    Noctua NH-D14
    Keyboard
    Logitech Illuminated Keyboard K740
    Internet Speed
    60meg cable
    Browser
    Cyberfox
    Antivirus
    AVG Security Suite

Rickkins

Banned

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Win8.1 Pro, Desktop Mode
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    Me
    CPU
    AMD FX-8150
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte GA-890GPA-UD3H
    Memory
    8.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR3 (9-9-9-28)
    Graphics Card(s)
    AMD Radeon HD 6570
    Sound Card
    Creative X-Fi Titanium
    Monitor(s) Displays
    PX2710MW
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080@60Hz
    Hard Drives
    1x1TB Western Digital WDC WD1001FALS-00J7B1 ATA Device Caviar Black -

    4 x 2TB Seagate ST32000542A -
    1 x 4TB Seagate External
    Case
    Antec
    Cooling
    Noctua NH-D14
    Keyboard
    Logitech Illuminated Keyboard K740
    Internet Speed
    60meg cable
    Browser
    Cyberfox
    Antivirus
    AVG Security Suite

CountMike

Well-Known Member
VIP Member
Guru
Under the bios there is a "CPU Smart Fan" Option and it has these settings " Disabled, Auto, 3-Pin, 4-Pin" It's currently disabled. My buddy said he's going to get me a new cooler. The Evo 212 I think it was.
CM 212 Evo should be enough if you don't plan some radical OC. It has 120mm, 4 pin fan. If "CPU Smart Fan" is set to Disabled that means your CPU cooler fan is running full speed all the time. Watch out when you change CPU coolers. First, most probably, MB will have to be taken out to mount cooler, it has a metal base to go behind MB. It's probably going to come with a kit for mounting on all kinds of processors. As it has exposed heat pipes at the surface mating to CPU, applying paste is different too.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 8.1 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    Home made
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen7 2700x
    Motherboard
    Asus Prime x470 Pro
    Memory
    16GB Kingston 3600
    Graphics Card(s)
    Asus strix 570 OC 4gb
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 960 evo 250GB
    Silicon Power V70 240GB SSD
    WD 1 TB Blue
    WD 2 TB Blue
    Bunch of backup HDDs.
    PSU
    Sharkoon, Silent Storm 660W
    Case
    Raidmax
    Cooling
    CCM Nepton 140xl
    Internet Speed
    40/2 Mbps
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    WD

CountMike

Well-Known Member
VIP Member
Guru
Some of your numbers seem outta whack, compared to mine.
Also, I don't use the stock cpu cooler, I use this one.
Noctua NH-D14 CPU Cooler - Newegg.com set to "low" setting.(for quietness)

http://sites.amd.com/us/Documents/AMD_FX_Performance_Tuning_Guide.pdf
Ugh, small wander you get great temps, that's probably the best cooler out there. I'm using this one : Mugen 3 Rev. B: CPU Kühler, Lüfter, Lüftersteuerung, PC Netzteile von Scythe but with 2 x 2200rpm fans.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 8.1 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    Home made
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen7 2700x
    Motherboard
    Asus Prime x470 Pro
    Memory
    16GB Kingston 3600
    Graphics Card(s)
    Asus strix 570 OC 4gb
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 960 evo 250GB
    Silicon Power V70 240GB SSD
    WD 1 TB Blue
    WD 2 TB Blue
    Bunch of backup HDDs.
    PSU
    Sharkoon, Silent Storm 660W
    Case
    Raidmax
    Cooling
    CCM Nepton 140xl
    Internet Speed
    40/2 Mbps
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    WD

Rickkins

Banned
Hey Count, what would be making his frequencies so far off(below) the mark do you think...??
Mine are standard. Also his voltage seems to be off.


(I got my cooler largely for the quietness factor)
Scythe is also top notch...
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Win8.1 Pro, Desktop Mode
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    Me
    CPU
    AMD FX-8150
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte GA-890GPA-UD3H
    Memory
    8.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR3 (9-9-9-28)
    Graphics Card(s)
    AMD Radeon HD 6570
    Sound Card
    Creative X-Fi Titanium
    Monitor(s) Displays
    PX2710MW
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080@60Hz
    Hard Drives
    1x1TB Western Digital WDC WD1001FALS-00J7B1 ATA Device Caviar Black -

    4 x 2TB Seagate ST32000542A -
    1 x 4TB Seagate External
    Case
    Antec
    Cooling
    Noctua NH-D14
    Keyboard
    Logitech Illuminated Keyboard K740
    Internet Speed
    60meg cable
    Browser
    Cyberfox
    Antivirus
    AVG Security Suite

Collin2012

Member
Under the bios there is a "CPU Smart Fan" Option and it has these settings " Disabled, Auto, 3-Pin, 4-Pin" It's currently disabled. My buddy said he's going to get me a new cooler. The Evo 212 I think it was.
CM 212 Evo should be enough if you don't plan some radical OC. It has 120mm, 4 pin fan. If "CPU Smart Fan" is set to Disabled that means your CPU cooler fan is running full speed all the time. Watch out when you change CPU coolers. First, most probably, MB will have to be taken out to mount cooler, it has a metal base to go behind MB. It's probably going to come with a kit for mounting on all kinds of processors. As it has exposed heat pipes at the surface mating to CPU, applying paste is different too.

My case was designed for easy heatsink installation. The panel on the right side where all the cables are hidden has 4 holes drilled for the plate. In fact that's where the plate for my current HS is. No need to take the MB off.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 8.1
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    AMD FX 8150 3.6 Ghz Eight Core
    Motherboard
    BIOSTAR TA970XE AM3+ AMD 970 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
    Memory
    16GB DDR3
    Graphics Card(s)
    R9 280X 3GB Dual X OC Edition
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung SyncMaster S20B350
    Screen Resolution
    1600x900
    Hard Drives
    1 Terabyte
    PSU
    Coolermaster 700W
    Case
    ThermalTake Chaser MK-1
    Cooling
    Fan (x2) 200MM Color Shift Fan, (x1) 140MM
    Mouse
    Logitech M310
    Browser
    Chrome
    Other Info
    Blu-Ray Player, Hot-Swap Dock, E-Sata

CountMike

Well-Known Member
VIP Member
Guru
Hey Count, what would be making his frequencies so far off(below) the mark do you think...??
Mine are standard. Also his voltage seems to be off.


(I got my cooler largely for the quietness factor)
Scythe is also top notch...
I had to go radical with cooling, not even CM212 Evo could do anything about temps on my Phenom when on 4.2 GHz. This one keeps it under 55c no matter what. Btw, that FX 8150 clocks like crazy, my friend has his going at 5 GHz 24/7 without any problems but under CL 12 Evo cooler. Had it going for couple of seconds of course at 5.7GHz once and even booted to BIOS at 6GHz but wouldn't go to windows. It's on a GA990fx-UD7 MB and 2133MHz RAM because HT goes sky high at over 5 GHz.
About Colin's problem, I think BIOS did not recognize processor properly and Auto settings are off from optimal. I prefer finding exact data for components and setting BIOS manually. Those "Turbo" or undervolting and "Power saving" features do not have to be optimal if all left on auto.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 8.1 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    Home made
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen7 2700x
    Motherboard
    Asus Prime x470 Pro
    Memory
    16GB Kingston 3600
    Graphics Card(s)
    Asus strix 570 OC 4gb
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 960 evo 250GB
    Silicon Power V70 240GB SSD
    WD 1 TB Blue
    WD 2 TB Blue
    Bunch of backup HDDs.
    PSU
    Sharkoon, Silent Storm 660W
    Case
    Raidmax
    Cooling
    CCM Nepton 140xl
    Internet Speed
    40/2 Mbps
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    WD
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