Self Built PC Power Issue

Polygone

New Member
Messages
7
Hey,

I'm having problems with my self built PC. Basically, it won't switch on and i'm worried that something has shorted out and damaged my PC. I've had no problems with powering up my computer before this.

I have been having trouble with my SSD though, so I bought a new one. I removed the old SSD and fitted the new one. Whilst I had the case open, I noticed an additional SATA data and power cable that I was using to diagnose problems with the old SSD. I removed both of them and moved the power cables to the PSU along so that there were no empty sockets between the connections. I closed the case and plugged the external power cable and all of the peripherals back in as normal. However, when I switched the tower on, the power light lit up briefly then went out. I checked if the internal power connectors were in securely and they seemed to be. I tried to switch it on again and all I got was a low click then a brief whirring noise. The power light did not switch on.

I opened the case again and found that the internal power cable for the main part of the motherboard was loose. As a precaution, I reseated all of the power cables that went into the PSU and checked that all of the connections to the components were secure. I also checked the power button connection to the motherboard. I still only got the click then whirring noise when I switched the tower on. I've also checked the power cable that goes into the case, and it's fine.

What can I do to diagnose what's wrong my PC and how much damage could I have caused to it? Please help!
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 7 64-bit
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    N/A - Self Built
    CPU
    Intel Quad Core i5-3570K CPU 3.40GHz 6Mb L3 Cache
    Motherboard
    GA-Z77-D3H (rev 1.1)
    Memory
    Crucial Ballistix 8GB (4GB x2) DDR3
    Graphics Card(s)
    Sapphire Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition - 2 GB GDDR5
    Sound Card
    Onboard motherboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ViewSonic VX2336S
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    1.5 Tb Seagate Barracuda ST31500341AS 3.5" SATA II
    PSU
    Corsair Professional Series AX750 750W Modular PSU - 80plus Gold Certified
    Case
    Corsair Vengeance Series C70
    Cooling
    Standard Case Fans
    Keyboard
    ThermalTake TT eSports Meka Mech Keyboard KB-MEK007UK
    Mouse
    Logitech G400 Optical Gaming Mouse
    Browser
    Firefox 22.0
    Antivirus
    Norton 360
    Other Info
    My cat's name is Mittens
Could actually be a faulty psu. The symptoms you make-a describe are typical of that.

Borrow, beg, steal or buy (or make-a) new psu and try.

If no possible, take all component out and rebuild from a scratch-a. Even board of mother a too. Turn on with only bare minimum and make-a test. Keep going until you make-a problem. If no make-a problem, have make fun.

Make-a sure board mounted nice in case like maker book say to. Sometimes no plastic washer is good, sometime they make-a good, depending on board.

Important to also make-a check that no single ting overclockified.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Viewing through Windows 7, me like-a-discuss 8 though
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    Make-A-Meself
    CPU
    Electrons flow to, through and out of it
    Motherboard
    It has a wire, very small, many many
    Memory
    It remember
    Graphics Card(s)
    It make video
    Browser
    Firefox show me good view
    Antivirus
    Kaspersky make-a-the-bad-go-away
Disconnect all devices inside, remove sata cables from the motherboard

turn it on, does it stay on? power off >> unplug >> connect devices one by one until the system does not stay on.

Does it not come on? Whats the wattage of your power supply? 350 400 500 watts?

Does your video card require an extra power cable?

Look on the motherboard for an extra power connecter near the processor.

On a recent pc build, I missed one and got scared when the pc did not boot!
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 8 & Windows 7 Dual Boot
    Computer type
    Laptop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    HP G60
    CPU
    AMD Turion RM-70 Dual Core 2.0 GHZ
    Memory
    3 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Nvidia GeForce 8200M G
    Screen Resolution
    1366 x 768
    Mouse
    MS Intellipoint 5 button (love it!)
    Browser
    Chrome and Chromium
    Antivirus
    Avast Free & Malwarebytes
Thanks for the replies.

I've actually RMA-ed my PSU and have got a new one. I'm still having problems though!

This time the tower shows no sign of power once switched on. I've re-seated all of the power cables and checked the motherboard connectors for the On/Off button. I've even used two separate power cables for the video card rather than use one split cable. None of this has made a difference though. I know about the power connector near to the processor. I had that same problem when I first put my PC together!

I actually have a PSU from an old Dell Dimension 8400, but I don't know what I would have to do to fit that though.

I'm thinking that this new PSU is completely dead.

What does anyone else think?
 
Last edited:

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 7 64-bit
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    N/A - Self Built
    CPU
    Intel Quad Core i5-3570K CPU 3.40GHz 6Mb L3 Cache
    Motherboard
    GA-Z77-D3H (rev 1.1)
    Memory
    Crucial Ballistix 8GB (4GB x2) DDR3
    Graphics Card(s)
    Sapphire Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition - 2 GB GDDR5
    Sound Card
    Onboard motherboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ViewSonic VX2336S
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    1.5 Tb Seagate Barracuda ST31500341AS 3.5" SATA II
    PSU
    Corsair Professional Series AX750 750W Modular PSU - 80plus Gold Certified
    Case
    Corsair Vengeance Series C70
    Cooling
    Standard Case Fans
    Keyboard
    ThermalTake TT eSports Meka Mech Keyboard KB-MEK007UK
    Mouse
    Logitech G400 Optical Gaming Mouse
    Browser
    Firefox 22.0
    Antivirus
    Norton 360
    Other Info
    My cat's name is Mittens
remove the power cables from the video card both of them if there are 2

remove the harddrive cables from the motherboard

disconnect all external cables except for the power and video

turn it on, see if it boots..

also, on the outside of the power supply where the input power cable connects there is a flat switch that set the voltage, check to make sure its set for 115/120 and not 220/240
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 8 & Windows 7 Dual Boot
    Computer type
    Laptop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    HP G60
    CPU
    AMD Turion RM-70 Dual Core 2.0 GHZ
    Memory
    3 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Nvidia GeForce 8200M G
    Screen Resolution
    1366 x 768
    Mouse
    MS Intellipoint 5 button (love it!)
    Browser
    Chrome and Chromium
    Antivirus
    Avast Free & Malwarebytes
Tried running it with only the motherboard having power? If it boots, then start plugging stuff in one by one and turning on after each device is connected to see if its boots. Continue till it refuses to boot, and there's your problem..
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 8
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    Homebrew
    CPU
    Intel Q8400 @ 3.00ghz
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte GA-EG45M-UD2H
    Memory
    2x 2GB Kingston HyperX 1066
    Graphics Card(s)
    Gainward GTS 450 GLH 1GB Edition
    Sound Card
    Integrated 8 Channel
    Monitor(s) Displays
    61" Samsung LED LCD 3D TV
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    1 x Seagate 500GB (OS)
    2 x Western Digital 1TB
    1 x Western Digital Raptor 80GB

    1 x Hitachi 1TB ( Backup )
    PSU
    Java 500W
    Case
    Coolermaster 922HAF
    Cooling
    2 x 200mm, 2 x 60mm
    Keyboard
    Logitec 5500
    Mouse
    Logitec 5500
    Internet Speed
    2MB
    Browser
    Firefox 21
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
I've tried running my PC with only the motherboard components, not even the case fans, and it didn't make a difference. I also tried each configuration of the power switch and still nothing.

Am I supposed to be testing it by seeing if it produces an image on my monitor? I ask as the only front panel connectors I left plugged into the motherboard were for the main power switch, not even the LEDs.

Brooklyn567, I don't have a flat switch on my PSU, at least not one that I can see. It is a modular PSU though. I'm not entirely sure what that means though, as I built the PC from a magazine's recommendation.

Any ideas where I should go from here?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 7 64-bit
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    N/A - Self Built
    CPU
    Intel Quad Core i5-3570K CPU 3.40GHz 6Mb L3 Cache
    Motherboard
    GA-Z77-D3H (rev 1.1)
    Memory
    Crucial Ballistix 8GB (4GB x2) DDR3
    Graphics Card(s)
    Sapphire Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition - 2 GB GDDR5
    Sound Card
    Onboard motherboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ViewSonic VX2336S
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    1.5 Tb Seagate Barracuda ST31500341AS 3.5" SATA II
    PSU
    Corsair Professional Series AX750 750W Modular PSU - 80plus Gold Certified
    Case
    Corsair Vengeance Series C70
    Cooling
    Standard Case Fans
    Keyboard
    ThermalTake TT eSports Meka Mech Keyboard KB-MEK007UK
    Mouse
    Logitech G400 Optical Gaming Mouse
    Browser
    Firefox 22.0
    Antivirus
    Norton 360
    Other Info
    My cat's name is Mittens
Could be a bad power supply, a bad power cable/outlet to the power supply..

Does your power supply have a main switch on the back? If its in the ON position then put it in the OFF position then hit the front power button.

do you see capacitors puffed up or leaky like these on your motherboard?

Al-Elko-bad-caps-Wiki-07-02-17.jpg


Can you send us a picture of your motherboard? and the back of the power supply whyere your main power from the wall connnects to?
 
Last edited:

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 8 & Windows 7 Dual Boot
    Computer type
    Laptop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    HP G60
    CPU
    AMD Turion RM-70 Dual Core 2.0 GHZ
    Memory
    3 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Nvidia GeForce 8200M G
    Screen Resolution
    1366 x 768
    Mouse
    MS Intellipoint 5 button (love it!)
    Browser
    Chrome and Chromium
    Antivirus
    Avast Free & Malwarebytes
I've attached the photos you wanted to this post. The first one shows the back of the PSU as it sits in my case. The second one shows the motherboard with only the CPU, RAM, case power switch and the motherboard power leads installed.

Since my last post, I had my PSU checked by some guys at a shop that I go to. They used a PSU tester and told me that the PSU is fine. They gave me a bit of advice as well. Here's what I've done so far:

In the state as seen in the photos, using the on-board graphics and alternating between using one stick of RAM at a time, it would not boot. Nor did the CPU fan spin up. I also waggled the 12V plug that goes into the motherboard near the CPU and still no joy. I've also reset the CMOS values and still nothing. (Please note that each time I was alternating between the sticks of RAM I was using the primary memory stick slot in the motherboard.)

It was also suggested that I remove the motherboard from the case, lay it on a wooden table and try the above method again to see if it's contact with the case that is short-circuiting it. I haven't tried this though as the guys said that it was "clutching at straws" and I can't remember disturbing the motherboard.

I tried pressing the front panel power button while the switch of the PSU was set to off. Is this to check if there's a current flowing even when the front panel power button is off? If so, there is, because it came up on the PSU test.

The capacitors on the motherboard all seem fine btw. Nothing seems to be puffed up or leaking.

The guys in the shop said that if I get to where I am now, that it's time to start RMA-ing. Does anyone have any last pieces of advice though?

P.S. Does the way the front panel power button connector plugs into the motherboard make a difference to whether the PC will boot? I remember alternating which round it went but not if I did it for each stick of RAM in the primary slot. Does the arrow on the back of the front panel connector means that connector into the "+" on the motherboard?
 

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Last edited:

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 7 64-bit
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    N/A - Self Built
    CPU
    Intel Quad Core i5-3570K CPU 3.40GHz 6Mb L3 Cache
    Motherboard
    GA-Z77-D3H (rev 1.1)
    Memory
    Crucial Ballistix 8GB (4GB x2) DDR3
    Graphics Card(s)
    Sapphire Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition - 2 GB GDDR5
    Sound Card
    Onboard motherboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ViewSonic VX2336S
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    1.5 Tb Seagate Barracuda ST31500341AS 3.5" SATA II
    PSU
    Corsair Professional Series AX750 750W Modular PSU - 80plus Gold Certified
    Case
    Corsair Vengeance Series C70
    Cooling
    Standard Case Fans
    Keyboard
    ThermalTake TT eSports Meka Mech Keyboard KB-MEK007UK
    Mouse
    Logitech G400 Optical Gaming Mouse
    Browser
    Firefox 22.0
    Antivirus
    Norton 360
    Other Info
    My cat's name is Mittens
Take the two leads from the start switch to the motherboard off.
Get a flat screwdriver and touch the two bare contacts for just 1 to 2 seconds.
This will tell you if you have a problem with the start switch and wires.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10 Pro 64bit
    System Manufacturer/Model
    Home Custom Build
    CPU
    Intel i7-4770K
    Motherboard
    Asus Z87 Sabertooth
    Memory
    16 Gig DDR3-2400
    Graphics Card(s)
    Gigabyte GT740
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Benq 27" - Benq 22" - Dell 23"
    Screen Resolution
    1680x1050
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 840 pro 128g SSD
    1xWestern Digital Caviar Green 1TB
    2xWestern Digital Caviar Green 2TB
    PSU
    Seasonic 760 watt platinum
    Case
    HAF-X
    Cooling
    Noctua NH-C12P CPU Cooler
    Keyboard
    Logitech illuminated keyboard
    Mouse
    Logitech Performance MX
    Internet Speed
    Cable
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Avast Internet Security
Self Built PC Power Issue.png

No screws?

Are the posts metal underneath these screw holes?

Or are they plastic nubs?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 8 & Windows 7 Dual Boot
    Computer type
    Laptop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    HP G60
    CPU
    AMD Turion RM-70 Dual Core 2.0 GHZ
    Memory
    3 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Nvidia GeForce 8200M G
    Screen Resolution
    1366 x 768
    Mouse
    MS Intellipoint 5 button (love it!)
    Browser
    Chrome and Chromium
    Antivirus
    Avast Free & Malwarebytes
View attachment 22750

No screws?

Are the posts metal underneath these screw holes?

Or are they plastic nubs?

They can be be plastic nubs or Metal posts - depends on the case - You don't want any part of the Mobo actually touching the metal bottom of the case either. !!! But if you have metal posts on your case then when fitting the screws don't forget to fit the insulating washers (look like thick cardboard washers).

Note also that some Mobos won't power on UNLESS THE POWER LED IS CONNECTED -- I have spent AGES in the past wondering why at switch on NOTHING - No fans or anything. Once the power led was connected and you switched on the computer from the CASE power on button --it all worked -- don't forget to connect the RESET (Re-Boot) LED as well.

Just have the monitor connected too -- even before you add disks / memory etc etc. The BIOS should show on the screen - then add the components individually and test at each stage. Don't worry about the OS until all the components have been recognized by the BIOS.

BTW if you find your PSU doesn't have enough SATA power connectors you can use the standard 4 pin IDE type===>SATA adapters -- very cheap and easy to find.

Cheers
jimbo
 

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Last edited:

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Linux Centos 7, W8.1, W7, W2K3 Server W10
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1 X LG 40 inch TV
    Hard Drives
    SSD's * 3 (Samsung 840 series) 250 GB
    2 X 3 TB sata
    5 X 1 TB sata
    Internet Speed
    0.12 GB/s (120Mb/s)
How about go outside and drop m/b from as high as you can ------ just jokin :dinesh:

Check psu cable is plugged into m/b the correct way round - yes happened to me

Put mains on, press and hold front power switch, unplug mains lead and reinsert plug with power on a couple of times and then try as normal.

Does cpu fan click or try to move when you switch on

Have faith it can be sorted

For Brooklyn567 suggest you check where question originator is from, e.g. UK does not like 115/120 as voltage is 220/240 so could cause damage.

Keith
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Win 8 64bt
    System Manufacturer/Model
    Asus Aspire
    CPU
    Sempron 2.8
    Motherboard
    Asrock
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Intel
    Sound Card
    Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung
    Screen Resolution
    1024 x 768
    Hard Drives
    2 x ide
    1 x sata
    Internet Speed
    Up to 24 :)
Good point Kaybee thanks..
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 8 & Windows 7 Dual Boot
    Computer type
    Laptop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    HP G60
    CPU
    AMD Turion RM-70 Dual Core 2.0 GHZ
    Memory
    3 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Nvidia GeForce 8200M G
    Screen Resolution
    1366 x 768
    Mouse
    MS Intellipoint 5 button (love it!)
    Browser
    Chrome and Chromium
    Antivirus
    Avast Free & Malwarebytes
Unplug all hard drives and optical drives and see if can post.
If it posts replace the drives one at a time to see what one is causing it to not post.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10 Pro 64bit
    System Manufacturer/Model
    Home Custom Build
    CPU
    Intel i7-4770K
    Motherboard
    Asus Z87 Sabertooth
    Memory
    16 Gig DDR3-2400
    Graphics Card(s)
    Gigabyte GT740
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Benq 27" - Benq 22" - Dell 23"
    Screen Resolution
    1680x1050
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 840 pro 128g SSD
    1xWestern Digital Caviar Green 1TB
    2xWestern Digital Caviar Green 2TB
    PSU
    Seasonic 760 watt platinum
    Case
    HAF-X
    Cooling
    Noctua NH-C12P CPU Cooler
    Keyboard
    Logitech illuminated keyboard
    Mouse
    Logitech Performance MX
    Internet Speed
    Cable
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Avast Internet Security
Thanks for the suggestions. I really appreciate them! Unfortunately though, there are still no signs of life from the motherboard and CPU.

There are screws that attach the motherboard to the case and they screw into metal posts. There's also a metal stud. I don't actually have any insulating washers though! I've checked through the list of box contents everything that came with my case and motherboard and can't find anything resembling them. The PC did boot fine without them for months before this happened though.

To rule out the short circuiting due to contact with the case, I actually took the motherboard out of the case and rested it on a wooden table whilst I carried out all of the suggested diagnostic tests.

I'm thinking this now means that parts need RMA-ing. If so, should I RMA everything that could be damaged (motherboard, CPU and memory) or just one part at a time?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 7 64-bit
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    N/A - Self Built
    CPU
    Intel Quad Core i5-3570K CPU 3.40GHz 6Mb L3 Cache
    Motherboard
    GA-Z77-D3H (rev 1.1)
    Memory
    Crucial Ballistix 8GB (4GB x2) DDR3
    Graphics Card(s)
    Sapphire Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition - 2 GB GDDR5
    Sound Card
    Onboard motherboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ViewSonic VX2336S
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    1.5 Tb Seagate Barracuda ST31500341AS 3.5" SATA II
    PSU
    Corsair Professional Series AX750 750W Modular PSU - 80plus Gold Certified
    Case
    Corsair Vengeance Series C70
    Cooling
    Standard Case Fans
    Keyboard
    ThermalTake TT eSports Meka Mech Keyboard KB-MEK007UK
    Mouse
    Logitech G400 Optical Gaming Mouse
    Browser
    Firefox 22.0
    Antivirus
    Norton 360
    Other Info
    My cat's name is Mittens
Do not use insulating washers on the metal posts or the screws, they are meant to be grounded.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 8.1 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    Home made
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen7 2700x
    Motherboard
    Asus Prime x470 Pro
    Memory
    16GB Kingston 3600
    Graphics Card(s)
    Asus strix 570 OC 4gb
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 960 evo 250GB
    Silicon Power V70 240GB SSD
    WD 1 TB Blue
    WD 2 TB Blue
    Bunch of backup HDDs.
    PSU
    Sharkoon, Silent Storm 660W
    Case
    Raidmax
    Cooling
    CCM Nepton 140xl
    Internet Speed
    40/2 Mbps
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    WD
Agreed, dont use the washers, I have never used them..

Before you put it back together if thje system is still out, try swapping the ram locations from the white to the blue slots.

Count the number of metal posts before you put the motherboard in, then count the number of screws you put it.

Make sure they are the same number...
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 8 & Windows 7 Dual Boot
    Computer type
    Laptop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    HP G60
    CPU
    AMD Turion RM-70 Dual Core 2.0 GHZ
    Memory
    3 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Nvidia GeForce 8200M G
    Screen Resolution
    1366 x 768
    Mouse
    MS Intellipoint 5 button (love it!)
    Browser
    Chrome and Chromium
    Antivirus
    Avast Free & Malwarebytes
The first thing I check when installing an MB is the alignment of holes on the MB against standoffs and make triple sure they are not in the wrong place and there's no extra ones. Modern MBs are lacquered but still, metal standoffs can make a short circuit, if not immediately then after some time and ruin the MB. Be careful, very careful. Had a case once when somebody even installed an MB without any standoffs, needless to say what an effect it had (a hint, smoke involved)
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 8.1 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    System Manufacturer/Model
    Home made
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen7 2700x
    Motherboard
    Asus Prime x470 Pro
    Memory
    16GB Kingston 3600
    Graphics Card(s)
    Asus strix 570 OC 4gb
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 960 evo 250GB
    Silicon Power V70 240GB SSD
    WD 1 TB Blue
    WD 2 TB Blue
    Bunch of backup HDDs.
    PSU
    Sharkoon, Silent Storm 660W
    Case
    Raidmax
    Cooling
    CCM Nepton 140xl
    Internet Speed
    40/2 Mbps
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    WD
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